Chowderlicious

The word "restaurant" is from the French "restaurer" meaning "to restore". In the late 1700's, a Parisienne named Boulanger hung a sign in front of his shop declaring for sale "restaurants" in the form of soup. Now the term encompasses all commercial establishments who serve food to the public. But you can't give what you don't have. A tired and cranky cook isn't likely to turn out fare that's truly restorative. After plating a four course meal where every dish ended up either brown or beige, I sensed burn-out lurking. Saskatchewan is notoriously monochromatic at winter's end, so I packed up the kids and headed to my Mom's place in Victoria for Easter break. Colour smacks you in the face the second you arrive on the Island - heritage buildings in jaunty shades of blue, yellow and orange, showy tulips and daffodils and green, green leaves everywhere.

And then there's the food. I tried to order chowder at 9 a.m. at the Pier Bistro in Sidney (hey, it was noon somewhere!) but settled for delightful Crab Cake Eggs Benny. I'll adapt them using pickerel or pike seasoned with wild juniper and call them Eggs Jenni. I won't, however, be able to replicate the experience of sail boats almost scraping the windows of the dining room as we ate. If you squint, the dilapadated bar across the street might look like a tall ship, though!

We had the famous fish and chips at Barb's and weren't disappointed. They even give you a pager so you can wander the docks, feed a seal or two and envy houseboats while awaiting your meal.

My chowder cravings were more than satisfied at red fish blue fish near Wharf Street. Now I understand the sentiment behind those tacky "Kiss the Cook" aprons. After sucking back a (compostable) cup of coconut-milky, spicy broth loaded with CHUNKS, not FLAKES of white fish confit, I could have hopped into the converted shipping container kitchen and hugged the chef, who looks a bit like a pirate. My daughter had a salmon tacone (taco cone) and Mom sampled the Cod Dog. Alexander's finely honed 11 year old palate found the Kennebec chips "the best". Good work, pirate chef!

Sips Artisinal Bistro was another find in the James Bay area. For $25, I had the weekly tasting menu of local cheeses and charcuterie, pork belly confit with thyme roasted potatoes and chocolate mousse. The wine pairings were spot on, although the food was so good I kept forgetting to drink! Their open work space is tiny and the only equipment I saw was a hot plate and a convection oven. Made me fully appreciate the relatively spacious kitchen in a building I actually own.

My epiphany happened at Crepes n' Cream on Menzies Street. The chef, a tiny dark haired woman in a ball cap and jeans, beamed at us when we entered her quaint pink shop. The writer Toni Morrison has stated that the greatest gift a mother can give her child is to have her face light up when they enter the room. Maybe it's the same with customers. Am I sometimes so busy prepping and stressing that I emanate "Oh, no!" instead of "Oh, hello!" when you walk in?

Last summer, I closed for the entire month of July. Not the best business model, perhaps, but just the thing for gaining perspective and refreshment. I'll do it again this year. Statuatory holidays, the kids' Christmas holidays and the week after Easter are also my chowder-eating, travelling, renovating, idea-gathering, family-enjoying times of rest. All so I can serve you better and longer in a place that's a real "restaurant"!